Hotel La Calcina

In this tavern called the Calcina John Ruskin started writing “Stones of Venice”, one of the most famous books about this city. Although now the name of John Ruskin is usually only vaguely familiar to most people, in the second half of the 19th century and up until the First World War he was a highly influential writer, philosopher and art historian. An avid traveller, he visited Venice 11 times, his first visit at the age of 16 in 1835 – and his last more than 50 years later, in 1888, when he was 67. His friend, count Zorzi called him ‘English by birth, Venetian by heart’. 

He moved here from the Grand Hotel to save money. At the time Zattere was a busy port area – so a tavern on the waterfront was not exactly a place popular with wealthy tourists, but rather frequented by locals, including writers and artists. Ruskin enjoyed this real Venice, feeling much more at ease here. To keep fit he used the quay in front of the Calcina for chopping firewood.

This was Ruskin`s base of operations for his work around the city – studying, sketching, writing – the location is indeed convenient, just a few minutes from the Accademia. Now this tavern is a hotel with a restaurant on the ground floor – much fancier, of course than 150 years ago, but definitely not the most expensive place on the waterfront either. Feel free to enjoy a glass of wine at one of the tables overlooking the channel before heading on the same route John Ruskin took many times – towards Accademia.